By our favorite West Coast reporter – Kathy Chin Leong
Of all the hotels in the world, the Palace Hotel certainly lives up to its name. Picture marble pillars, gold thrones, and Austrian chandeliers dripping from the ceiling. And of course, what European-inspired property would not offer afternoon tea? Throughout the year, the San Francisco icon steps up to deliver weekly tea experiences that are the stuff Victorian dreams are made of.
My son Aaron and I arrive for its Pink October Afternoon Tea, a thematic one to honor Breast Cancer Awareness month. Coming to this historic hotel of 150 years never gets old. It is as if you step back in time, where early patrons arrived via horse and carriage. The doormen still wear top hats, emblematic of a classic era.
And then, there’s that ceiling. The 41-foot-tall glass dome ceiling is a showstopper. To walk under that giant umbrella of stained glass is like entering the set of Downton Abbey. Directly below the dome is the dining room of the Garden Court, where meals such as breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea are events in themselves.
Afternoon tea is served year-round on Saturdays, and it has served as a coming-of-age touchstone for Bay Area families commemorating graduations, promotions, birthdays, and engagements. The chef invests creativity into each of the bite-sized treasures. A glass of champagne is your starter beverage, followed by a plate of mixed berries. Wait staff are uniformly clad in black slacks and dark vests, attentive and generous in spirit.
Five sandwiches await, sequenced on a rectangular white plate. I would have preferred old-fashioned, colorful bone china with British flair, but that’s just me.
Several items feature breads made exclusively for the tea, baked on the premises. And for the Pink October Tea, we notice pink accents such as the pickled red onion, the heart-shaped ham sandwich, and the pink Boursin cream. My favorite savory is the tarragon crab salad featuring sweet bell pepper and charred artichoke. All of this tops the homemade cream puff. Freshness of the crab reminds me of the sea, and my taste buds stand at rapt attention.
Aaron speaks highly of the roasted Delacata squash, sliced thinly in a circle, and topped on a delicious, house-made pumpkin biscuit. What we appreciate here at the Palace is that the assortment of bites is varied, some heavier than others in taste and creaminess. The sliced cucumber sandwich is a refreshing contrast to the tuna spread on a mini brioche.
Meanwhile, the harpist plucks tunes from the Titanic, and she plays several rounds of Happy Birthday for honored guests. And speaking of guests, it is apparent that folks from all walks of life revel in this tradition. A couple of guys partaking in the extravagance are seated a few feet away from a family with two little boys. One of the tykes is given a gold crown by the wait staff for his birthday.
And at another table, about a dozen friends, both men and women, are decked out in fastener hats and finery to celebrate their pal’s birthday. Behind us, two girlfriends are chatting as plates of sandwiches sail in.
By the time our triple-tiered array of desserts arrives, we are pretty full. You get a whopping eight desserts of different textures and flavors. There’s, of course, the scones, and here we spy a cream scone and a raisin one. These are small, about two inches in diameter. These quickly become my favorite among the competitors. Pillowy, with excellent rise, these babies are moist and buttery. They slice open without falling apart, and we eagerly lather on the clotted cream, the lemon curd, and the berry jam.
As it is near Halloween, the sweets highlight a spooky theme with imprinted ghosts on chocolate. I find a shortbread finger that sits pointing at me. This thing with a red fingernail is so creepy, I cannot even bring myself to look at it, let alone eat it. The Palace pastry chef is too clever! Other goodies include an apple tart, a chocolate-covered strawberry, and a chocolate torte cake, to name a few.
The strains of the harp music are fading, the harpist is taking her break, and that is actually our cue to leave, as we have eaten enough sandwiches and downed enough tea for the week. These eight cups of Bangkok green tea have filled me up so much that I cannot add one more ounce.
It’s been over 30 years since I came for afternoon tea with one of my children. And while I have changed, I’m glad that the tradition of afternoon tea has not. I anticipate guests will savor these memories, even the ones with scary finger shortbread, for generations to come.
- Make your reservation at Palace Hotel or call 415-512-1111
