By Kathy Chin Leong
Presentation of tuna cigars
It’s the ultimate immigrant success story. Vietnamese family in 1975 snags the last cargo plane to safety to the United States before the fall of Saigon. Mother and three daughters reunite with husband in San Francisco where the family opens a restaurant and slowly introduces Vietnamese cuisine to a skeptical audience.
Today, the An clan, led by master chef Helene An, age 80, brims with pride. Crustacean San Francisco, a fusion Vietnamese restaurant, finds a new home on 195 Pine Street, its fifth in the House of An dynasty, not counting its catering biz. The first Crustacean was located on Polk Street and has moved, reinventing itself with jaw-dropping, how-did-they-do-that interiors and an equally astounding menu.
Back in 1997, Crustacean Beverly Hills took root on tony Rodeo Drive where Hollywood elite continue to party in droves. Bay Area locals are already familiar with the casual Thanh Long, its first restaurant, in the Sunset district.
Crab Over Garlic
Today, Crustacean SF opens at the right time in the financial district just as workers are returning to their offices seeking great places for lunch and dinner. Run by Helene’s daughter Monique An and her husband and chef Ken Lew, this high-end restaurant is where you go to toast a special occasion or enter out of intrigue to try Mrs. An’s secret recipes. Custom furnishings, flower arrangements, artwork, and an open dining format is both elegant and approachable.
Pendant lights look awfully similar to rice paddy hats. One wall of paintings reveals scenes from daily life in Vietnam: a family cooking, musicians strumming, a woman in ceremonial headdress. As part of its wall covering, one surface resembles a stack of super-sized horizontal bamboo. At some tables, those lucky enough will get to sit on special chairs harkening to traditional Vietnamese baskets. The gorgeous, lengthy dining table comes from a salvaged city tree nearby, underscoring the family’s commitment to “history, continuity, and connection,” according to Monique.
Now for the eats. Any place with a secret kitchen immediately grabs my attention. In fact, all House of An restaurants have a “secret kitchen” where only family members and trusted chefs are allowed in to conjure up its out-of-this-world garlic noodles, garlic roasted whole crab, drunken crab, tamarind crab, and other favored entrees worthy of concealment. These dishes are a staple across the empire for good reason.
Crab over garlic noodles
Ordering the pairing of garlic noodles and the roasted crab is a must. You will not have savored the pinnacle of delight unless you have tasted these treasures. Fresh thin noodles are hand crafted, boiled to al dente for that perfect chew. The crab is cracked and flaked out of the shell, making it easier for consume. You can order it in the shell or flaked out, by the way. While garlicky, it was not overly done – simply full of umami flavor.
A signature treat is the Instagrammable “tuna cigars” which is quite ceremonial. Picture a waiter gingerly carrying an old fashioned Cuban cigar box to the table. Upon opening, aromatic smoke unfurls revealing raw, seasoned tuna, plus caviar and avocado encased in a thin crispy cigar-shaped roll. The first bite explodes with crunch and fresh tuna flavor with a hint of tartness from squeezed lime. This wow dish delivers.
Tuna cigar
Another favorite is the charred whole branzino, a fish popular in Mediterranean cuisine. Here, it is seared to a delicate texture, and the white fish is not too firm and not too flaky. Each bite we had was succulent as turmeric, lemongrass, garlic, and lemon danced on our palates.
The kohlrabi Caesar salad is a unique, refreshing opener, a solid item to kick off your meal. Kohlrabi is a bulbous vegetable with white flesh which grows above ground while looking like a root vegetable. Here, it is shaved in wide, paper thin slices, topped with furikake flakes, parmesan cheese and a light dressing.
Crustacean San Francisco is simply unforgettable. Consider the immigrant success story, a secret kitchen, a smoking cigar box. The added bonus is Vietnamese fusion décor, a creative nod to the homeland. And, oh yes, like children of the An family, the dishes are treated with protection, love, and care.
Crustacean San Fransisco –
195 Pine Street, Financial District,
San Francisco, CA 94111
